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Old 03-11-2010, 01:23 AM   #391
stabwound
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Hey Mike, one more question.

Someone is selling a Syrinx on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/APC-Syrinx-Humbu...item414d0cbf60)

Do you know, judging by this:

"Q: Is this the lower profile one made for Floyd's? If not sure can you give me the measurement from baseplate to top of pickup? Thanks in advance.
A: It is .90 inches deep."

if it's standard or short, and if it would be good to go in a guitar with a floyd rose?
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Old 03-11-2010, 01:36 AM   #392
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Originally Posted by stabwound View Post
Hey Mike, one more question.

Someone is selling a Syrinx on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/APC-Syrinx-Humbu...item414d0cbf60)

Do you know, judging by this:

"Q: Is this the lower profile one made for Floyd's? If not sure can you give me the measurement from baseplate to top of pickup? Thanks in advance.
A: It is .90 inches deep."

if it's standard or short, and if it would be good to go in a guitar with a floyd rose?
A standard is right around an inch tall. Which doesn't seem that tall. But the wires come out the bottom of the pup, which adds to the depth that the cavity needs to be. I would take the pickups out of the cavities and measure the depth if you want to be sure something will fit. It's a pain in the ass, but it will be more of a hassle if you buy one that doesn't fit.
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Old 03-11-2010, 01:39 AM   #393
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Originally Posted by stabwound View Post
Hey Mike, one more question.

Someone is selling a Syrinx on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/APC-Syrinx-Humbu...item414d0cbf60)

Do you know, judging by this:

"Q: Is this the lower profile one made for Floyd's? If not sure can you give me the measurement from baseplate to top of pickup? Thanks in advance.
A: It is .90 inches deep."

if it's standard or short, and if it would be good to go in a guitar with a floyd rose?
Take the strings off, take the pups out of the cavities (you shouldn't need to remove any wiring), measure the depth of the cavity to the face of the guitar. Then restring the guitar and measure the distance between the face of the guitar and the strings. You should know exactly what you can fit in there this way. And keep in mind you need some spare room for pickup height adjustment.
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Old 03-11-2010, 02:07 AM   #394
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Ok cool, I'll do this tomorrow. Thanks a lot.
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Old 03-17-2010, 04:59 PM   #395
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So I am picking up a couple of preamps for guitars and vocals, We already have Protools LE 7 waves plugins,nady 8 channel preamp,BBE sonic max,2 shure SM57's,Shure SM58,couple of Maudio studio monitors.... Wondering what kind of analogue mixers you would recommend? just rying to round things off before we start tracking guitars,bass and vox at my studio.... Any other helpful gear recommend would be appreciated to, As well as what kind of mic would you recommend for vox thats reasonably priced?
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Old 03-18-2010, 04:23 PM   #396
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Hey Mike,

So, I'm in the market for a new amplifier. I really want to try out an ENGL because I've heard so many good things about them, but I don't know where I can go to try one. Do you know anywhere in the Bay Area who is a dealer?

I was looking into the Powerball 100 and the Savage 120. What is your opinion on these 2? Is the PB bad-ass enough for thrash and death metal? Also, do you know if it has a MIDI interface? I know the Savage does, but I don't know about the PB. I haven't been able to download the manual from ENGL's site.

-Thanks Dude
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Old 03-18-2010, 05:26 PM   #397
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I was looking into the Powerball 100 and the Savage 120.
I am not mike but can answer a bit....
The powerball is a stunning and very versatile head... you can get almost any tone imaginable with that, i have not had the privilege yet of playing the savage. So I don't know much... obviously your going for an engl so you can afford it... i hear the Invader 100 watt is even more versatile and I have heard that thing quite a few times and dan from decrepit birth uses one and the thing sounds amazing.
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Old 03-19-2010, 11:31 AM   #398
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I am not mike but can answer a bit....
The powerball is a stunning and very versatile head... you can get almost any tone imaginable with that, i have not had the privilege yet of playing the savage. So I don't know much... obviously your going for an engl so you can afford it... i hear the Invader 100 watt is even more versatile and I have heard that thing quite a few times and dan from decrepit birth uses one and the thing sounds amazing.
Hey, thanks a lot for your input. I am totally down for an ENGL, but not sure if I want to spend quite as much as I would for an Invader. I think they're going for like $3K new. But, I will definetely try one out if I get the chance. I wish I could get my hands on one of the Special Edition amps, but there's no way I can justify spending THAT much.

I think the Powerball is probably gonna have enough features to fulfill my needs as a player, but I don't like the fact that it does not have MIDI and that there are only a pair of EQ settings for 4 channels. Other than that, I have heard that the amp absolutely screams.
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Old 03-19-2010, 02:56 PM   #399
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I wish I could get my hands on one of the Special Edition amps, but there's no way I can justify spending THAT much.
Seen a special edition on musicians friend that needed midi repair was all.. it wasn't storing presets... for like $1600.. and it might cost 300 to fix if that
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Old 03-19-2010, 03:39 PM   #400
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Seen a special edition on musicians friend that needed midi repair was all.. it wasn't storing presets... for like $1600.. and it might cost 300 to fix if that
I may go check out a used Special Edition pretty soon, BUT it's one of the EL34 versions instead of the 6L6. What I hear about those is that they're more "mid-rangey" than the 6L6 model. I wish I could try-out both of them! Oh well. I'm sure it's gonna sound pretty killer anyways.

Anybody else on here have experience with the E670 EL34 model?
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Old 04-08-2010, 05:30 PM   #401
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Hey Mike,

I've had the TC Electronics G major for a while now and it sounds great. I'm controlling it with the Rocktron midi mate. But since i don't know how to set up each button so it can bypass the effect i had to make 4 different channels ex: Ch1-Reverb,Ch2-Reverb & Harmony(Min 3rd),Ch3-Delay,Ch4-Dry (no effects)

The reason i have Ch4 that way is cause i don't know how to setup bypass.Can you help me out? Also whenever i switch to my setting with the harmony i get a slight drop in volume for a sec then its normal. Do you know how to fix that?

Thanks man!
Craig
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Old 06-19-2010, 01:30 AM   #402
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powerball

where can i order an engl powerball e 645?
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:18 PM   #403
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do power amps really affect your tone that much? I've heard some people say that they do, and others claim that they dont.. I just bought an Axe-Fx and am now on the market for a power amp. I was initially going to go with the ENGL 850/100 but there is a 40 day wait due to the fact that they are all hand built (as well as a few other factors). As much as I want the engl, i am VERY impatient.. If I give in to my impatience and just order a vht 2/50/2 what will i really be sacrificing?
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Old 03-04-2011, 09:40 AM   #404
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do power amps really affect your tone that much? I've heard some people say that they do, and others claim that they dont.. I just bought an Axe-Fx and am now on the market for a power amp. I was initially going to go with the ENGL 850/100 but there is a 40 day wait due to the fact that they are all hand built (as well as a few other factors). As much as I want the engl, i am VERY impatient.. If I give in to my impatience and just order a vht 2/50/2 what will i really be sacrificing?
If you are talking about comparing solid state power amps, tone is affected very little. When talking about tube poweramps, there is a significant difference in tone and feel based on many factors. Anyone who says poweramps don't make a noticeable difference in tone or feel either has poor hearing, or is in denial and trying to justify not spending the extra money on a good power amp.

Tube poweramps. The biggest factor to consider is power tube type and quantity. Many love the tone and feel of EL34 power tubes. The way they saturate and dramatically change/improve in tone when increasing the volume. As well as the organic richness in tone and punch in the mids. But they are not considered ideal for prestine clean tones, as they saturate more at lower volume when compared to other tube types. Also, they do not have as much low end punch as other tubes have. Good perceived volume due to the fact the mids are more accentuated. Which makes up for being slightly less powerful than 6L6's.

6L6's are a cleaner sounding tube which saturate less than an EL34 at comparable perceived volume. Crisper high end, more depth and punch in the low end. But not quite as warm, or as much focus on the midrange. IMO, 6L6's are the best all around power tube.

KT88's are from my experience and from what I have read, the most accurate power tubes for reproducing the original signal. This is one of the cleanest sounding tubes. Less saturation at high volume than a 6L6. Tonally I consider a KT88 based power amp to be sort of a cross between a solid state amp and a tube amp. They have the hi-fi quality of a solid state amp (well, more so than other tube types) yet they still have a small amount of tube warmth, character and small amount of saturation at higher volumes.

If you sat in a room with one EL34 amp, a 6L6 amp, and a KT88 amp, and were able to play at band volume to compare the amps, you would notice a fairly dramatic difference in the way the amps sounded, and their responsiveness or how they "felt" when playing. Especially if you were to test each amp with a variety of preamp tones, such as a high gain death metal rhythm, clean tone, lead tone, etc.

Other factors in tube poweramps can make a noticeable difference as well. Plate voltage, transformer variations, circuitry, quality of components, different tube brands, etc. Even the power source can have an affect on tone that is noticeable to some.

It all comes down to what you need from a power amp based on the rest of your rig, tonal preferences, and volume requirements for your playing situation. I have owned many power amps, both solid state and tube. Mesa 2:90 (6L6), Peavey classic 50/50 (EL84), 2 different Tubeworks mosvalve's (solid state), Crown's (solid state), Cerwin Vega (solid state), VHT 2/90/2 (KT88), a couple others I know I'm forgetting, and my current poweramp the Engl 850/100.

As I stated before, the 6L6 is my favorite all around power tube. And the Engl 850/100 is the best 6L6 power amp I have ever tried. Actually it's the best power amp I've ever tried regardless of tube type. Excellent build quality, tone and volume. With 8 x 6L6's, you basically have the same power as 2 x "100 watt" heads (actual output wattage can vary depending on the make and model). This amp is an overkill for most guitarists. Typically a 100 watt tube head is more power than needed.

In my situation, I was the only guitarist in the band for a few years. I got the Engl 850/100 beast because I needed more power than a 100 watt head could provide, plus I wanted the freedom of having plenty of volume to spare should I ever need it. And there were a couple of occasions where we played a smaller show with no mic'd guitar cabinets. And in those situations, having that extra power really came in handy.

Now to your particular situation. The Axe-FX is a game changer in the world of guitar amplification. One of the reasons the Axe-FX works so well as a preamp, is the power amp simulation. This is where most other modelers completely fail. And it is one of the main reasons they don't sound or feel like a real amp. The Axe-FX has excellent power amp simulation and it can be fine tuned like no other. It is still not 100% accurate, but with each regularly released firmware update, it improves more and more.
I was quite happy with my tone on "Servile Insurrection", and that was with a very early version Axe-FX firmware. (I used version 4.05 to record S.I., they are now at version 10.02+)

Now, since an Axe-FX does a great job at recreating how a power amp effects the tone and feel of a preamp, this raises an important question.... do I need a tube poweramp if using an Axe-FX as a preamp? The answer is no. Many Axe-FX players are now using solid state poweramps. Many are even using PA monitors now instead of traditional guitar cabinets. Basically, if you already own a quality tube poweramp, chances are you will turn the poweramp simulation in the Axe-FX off completely. It would be redundant to have both poweramp simulation in the Axe-FX turned on, and a tube poweramp. If you have a solid state poweramp with the Axe-FX, you will definitely want to have the poweramp simulation in the Axe-FX turned on. (it's worth noting that some people are very happy with the results of combining poweramp simulation settings while using a tube poweramp as well.)

If you wanted to get a quick general idea of how a poweramp effects tone and feel, just hook up the Axe-FX to a solid state amp and toggle the poweramp simulation on and off. You can even simulate different tube types and circuitry variables by adjusting the poweramp settings.

So to answer your last question, should you wait until an Engl 850/100 becomes available, or just get a Fryette 2/50/2...
Well, having owned a VHT 2/90/2 (Fryette used to be VHT for those who weren't aware) and having played a VHT 2/50/2 before, I can say they are EXCELLENT poweramps. If the Engl 850/100 did not exist, I would most likely go back to VHT/Fryette, and most likely with another 2/90/2. The Engl destroys everything. Period. But do you need it? If you need that much power, and can afford a $2400 poweramp, AND you would prefer to have a real tube poweramp instead of using the poweramp simulation in the Axe-FX, then yes I would suggest waiting for the Engl 850/100. But as a 2nd suggestion, I would look into the VHT/Fryette 2/90/2. It is VERY powerful, and still has some of the tonal benefits of a tube poweramp. But it would be significantly cheaper than the Engl. The 2/90/2 combined with an Axe-FX using poweramp simulation would be a GREAT combo. And lastly, if you want to save even more money, look into a powerful quality solid state poweramp. You might have to tweak the Axe-FX poweramp simulation a bit more, but you won't have to worry about buying and replacing power tubes in the future. Or having to take the amp to a tech to have it biased when replacing said tubes. I hope this helps in your decision.
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Old 03-04-2011, 12:30 PM   #405
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mike, thanks so much! i am really new to all of this and admittedly it's all a bit overwhelming. i have been scouring the internet for this kind of information with very little luck, so i appreciate the time you took to put into that post. I think i'm going to try out the ART SLA2 at first. it's a complete 180 from what i was originally thinking but it's significantly cheaper and if it doesnt pan out, i'll just go for the 2/90/2 (or maybe even the 840/50?). either way, i definitely dont need the power of two 100 watt amps on stage with me, hah. thanks again!
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Old 03-05-2011, 12:21 AM   #406
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mike, thanks so much! i am really new to all of this and admittedly it's all a bit overwhelming. i have been scouring the internet for this kind of information with very little luck, so i appreciate the time you took to put into that post. I think i'm going to try out the ART SLA2 at first. it's a complete 180 from what i was originally thinking but it's significantly cheaper and if it doesnt pan out, i'll just go for the 2/90/2 (or maybe even the 840/50?). either way, i definitely dont need the power of two 100 watt amps on stage with me, hah. thanks again!
No problem! One thing I forgot to mention is solid state output wattage is much different compared to tube power output in wattage. The Art SLA2 is 200 watts per side at 8 ohms. This would be enough power for a cabinet that is mic'd and running through a PA. But in a band situation where you need to crank it up, it probably wouldn't be powerful enough. When a solid state poweramp reaches it's maximum output, it clips. You will most likely see a red light come on, and depending on how far it's being pushed past that point, you will hear an audible distortion or crackling that does not sound good. Tube poweramps on the other hand typically sound better when being pushed to this point. They don't clip in the same way solid state poweramps do. The audible distortion added from saturating the power tubes when pushing them harder is often a desired sound. So basically, I would go with something that has at least 100 watts tube power, or a solid state amp that has at least 300 watts per side at 8 ohms (assuming you have cabinets that are 8 ohms mono). Chances are, either a 100 watt tube amp, or 500 watt solid state amp will work fine, but it's best to have room to spare.
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Old 05-13-2011, 10:25 AM   #407
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Guys im selling my engl 570 and engl 920 poweramp! I remember i bought the 570 back in day because mike posted clips of it that made me jizz!!! check out the gear discussion forum for the details!
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Old 05-25-2011, 11:00 PM   #408
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Im glad that experienced people like you are willing to share knowledge on gear, you really are one of the most talented technical death metal guitarist, and really have a great tone i must say.
i have a 5150 and a did the bias mod, at 34ma, and sounds just fine, what 4x12 cab would you recommend, as the best match for my head, under 600 bucks, and if its not enough i can save some more for any other price range. also want to know if theres any other mod would be good, necessary, or worth trying on the 5150.... i wanna thank you in advanced for any advise you could give me, and for bringing great brutal music to this nasty world \m/.
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Old 05-26-2011, 08:55 AM   #409
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Thanks for the kind words man, it's much appreciated!
I've heard good things about using a 5150 cab with the 5150 head. And they can be bought used for fairly cheap. Other than that, there are a lot of good cabs that I'm sure you would be very happy with. The Vader's are decent priced, and have a unique, mean tone to them. A Mesa recto cab, or Marshall with vintage 30's would also be good ones to check out. IMO any decent quality cab with Vintage 30's will do the job. But as an alternative, I do like the tone Vader's have as well.

As far as amp mods go, if I had a 5150, I would probably just send it to Voodoo amps and do the "standard mod" they do for 5150's. It costs costs about $300, but I've heard lots of good things over the years regarding their 5150 mods. Other than that, one mod you can do yourself would be to change the preamp tubes. The first preamp tube socket, or V1, will have the greatest impact on tone and feel. I'm a couple years out of the loop on modern, current production tubes. But I'm going to assume not a whole lot has changed. And if that is the case, then my favorite as well as many other tube snobs favorite tube is a NOS (new old stock) Mullard ECC83 (12Ax7). A Mullard labeled 60-70's NOS ECC83 can be very expensive, anywhere from 100-200 bucks. But some places may have re-labeled 1960-70's NOS Mullards for around $75.

Ideally, you want the highest quality tube possible in the V1 and or V2 socket(s) of a preamp section. The tone is just better all around. More character, more detail in the mids, better distortion, better feel, etc. Which is why the "holy grail" of preamp tubes (the NOS Mullard ECC83) would go into the first socket. The second socket is usually additional gain stages, so again, a good high quality tube (preferably a NOS tube) should go here as well. Usually the 3rd socket is for eq, effects loop, etc. A super high quality tube is not as crucial at this stage, but I would still recommend a quality tube here as well. And lastly, the 4th socket is usually for the output stage, and once again, a super high quality tube is not as crucial here, but you should have something good here at the very least.

They just don't make them like they used to. They were made of higher quality components, and at a higher level of consistency. And if you take for example, some of the most commonly used 12AX7/ECC83's of today such as JJ's and Sovteks, you will most likely notice a difference even when switching between 2 tubes of the same brand. They are very inconsistent and you can have 1 JJ tube that sounds much better than another one from the same batch. Invest in a NOS Mullard ECC83, or a NOS RFT ECC83, swap it out with the V1 stock tube you have, and you will notice an instant improvement.
I used to buy tubes from a dude called "Lord Valve", and a place called KCA NOS Tubes. I'm not sure if Lord Valve is still in business, but KCA is. I would email him and see if he had any suggestions for retubing that 5150's preamp section. Hope this helps,
-Mike
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Old 05-27-2011, 03:21 AM   #410
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thanks a lot man, that was quick resonse :D!! ill definitely consider sending my amp to trace at voodoo, but first ill try the preamp tubes, now the you mention it that move really makes sense as a priority, and for the cab ill try to snatch one of those you mention depending on availability and price, i currently have a 2x12 and recently sold a peavey vtm 412.
i already ordered a mullard and a tungsol last week but unfortunately they are not NOS :S, ill take your advise and get me one of those NOS mullard's ASAP for v1 and try the others mean while, then switch them to the next sockets. i currently have 5 MESA russian II, sovteks i guess... looks like definitely they are going out

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